Despite many years of countless trips to Palm Springs, I had never taken the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway up the canyon. I suppose that I wrote it off as a typical overpriced tourist activity that would not have interested me. Maybe I was too busy imbibing beside a pool somewhere to really give it much thought. That changed recently when I needed to get some last minute high elevation acclimation for an upcoming day hike on Mt. Whitney. I figured a moderate hike followed by lunch on San Jacinto wasn’t the worst way to spend a Sunday.
In my unceasing objective to avoid crowds, I made sure to arrive at the Valley Station in Palm Springs early enough to get on the first trip up, which was at 8 a.m. I was immediately impressed by the beautiful facility built at the base of Chino Canyon. The ground station sits beside a freshwater creek and is surrounded by the towering San Jacinto Mountains. The early hour brought a sparse variety of passengers; the local regulars with their annual passes, young climbers with massive crash pads strapped to their backs and a few campers loaded up with backpacking gear for an overnight stay. As we all boarded the tram, I began to feel a little nervous for the first time. We were about to climb 10,000 feet in ten minutes in a metal box attached to a couple of cables.
Up we went. The circular floor rotates during each trip, giving passengers views from all angles. While my palms were sweating and my nerves were tense, the sheer beauty of the experience overshadowed most of the uneasiness. I previously thought of the Palm Springs Tram as a kind of Disneyesque kid’s ride up a hill to some gift shop. This was not that. The views were unlike anything I had ever seen before. The tram climbs up the rocky canyon, presenting the desert cities below and the sprawling mountain chains that surround them; the views rapidly expanding, further and further out. Every minute brings us another 1,000 feet higher, at one point bringing the tram through the clouds. The moisture and precipitation comes through the open windows as we are literally within a cloud for about a minute. We continue to climb and are now above the clouds. There is nothing like floating in a tiny 18 foot wide metal box just above the clouds, suspended at eye level with countless surrounding mountain peaks. And just like that, we arrive at the top.
We step off of the tram and into a cozy three-story glorified cabin containing a gift shop, information booth, observation decks looking out into the forest and multiple restaurants. From cafeteria style to fancy, the common denominator being the spectacular views all around. Coming up from Palm Springs down in the Sonoran Desert and arriving in an alpine forest in just ten minutes is strange; to begin in the dry August heat and be transported so quickly into the fresh cool mountain air is an incredible experience. Not to mention refreshing. In this exceptionally hot and dry Southern California summer, a casual hike through the San Jacinto Wilderness was invigorating. Filled with fragrant Jeffrey pines and massive rock structures, the views up there are absolutely stunning as well. As someone who has hiked the highest peaks of Southern California, I can say that the views from San Jacinto are unrivaled.
Having spent several hours hiking and resting at 10,000 feet, I felt that my acclimation was sufficient for the day and that it was time to take the tram back down to the desert. The ride down had an entirely different vibe than the way up. The early morning ascent was peaceful and quiet; hikers and older passengers silently enjoying the spectacular views. The afternoon decent was almost a party. The tram operator blasted Shania Twain’s “Man! I Feel Like A Woman” and it could not have been more fun. While I am not a fan of that particular song, it made for a great time on the way down. The riders were all laughing and screaming each time we made the bumpy passes through the five support towers. Im not sure if Shania Twain is part of the standard descent protocol, but she should be.
Finally back to the sweltering Palm Springs heat, I can’t believe that I have waited this long to ride the Aerial Tramway. It is certainly not a cheap tourist trap, as I naively thought before. Completed in 1962, it is an institution and a must-do for any visitor to Palm Springs. Apparently many others agree with this sentiment. As I walked back to my car, droves of people were heading towards the tram station. A strikingly different crowd in the afternoon, heading up to the fancier of the restaurants up top. People decked out in uncomfortably tight clothing, bathed in nauseating scents and awkwardly battling with gravity as they trudged up the hill in high heeled shoes. Apparently unwilling to leave the Palm Springs swank behind, even for a few hours. I feel a quick impulse to judge these people. I think to myself how these flashy PEOPE will be missing out on the natural beauty surrounding them up there, so concerned with their fine dining and fancy looks. I wonder if they have any idea of the rich diversity of geography and local history that permeates this area. I think of how I, too, love the swanky quality of Palm Springs and the high end mid-century modern aesthetic of the place. I then think of how I also love the desert and the canyon leading up to the mountains and the forest above. It then strikes me that all of us up there, whether decked out in sweatpants, hiking gear or high-end handbags, share a love for these amazing Southern California places and experiences.